Category: Articles – horsecare & other equestrian interest

In this section of the website you will find articles about horsecare and other topical subjects. Scroll down the page to see all the articles.

Has My Horse Got a Sore Back?

By Mel Betts, McTimoney Animal Therapist

Every day, we ask our horses to perform tasks which put stress and strain on muscles really only ever designed to eat grass and roam at will.  However, because horses are ‘prey’ animals they have cleverly developed to hide signs of pain and discomfort which may make them more vulnerable to a predator on the hunt for his next meal!   So, to find out if your horse is uncomfortable, we need to look out for subtle signs.  This is what Vets, McTimoney Animal Therapists and Chartered Physiotherapists do and you can also learn to recognise some of the main issues.

 

It is important to understand that any lameness or discomfort in the feet or limbs, overt or subtle, is a primary cause of back pain in horses due to patterns of compensation that occur over time.  Getting someone to lead your horse up and down and watching the way he moves is therefore often revealing.  It will take an experienced eye to see subtle gait abnormalities, but with practice you can learn to spot the main signs that may be evident as a result of discomfort.

 

Looking from the front or side view, there should be no uneven head nod, which may indicate front limb lameness.  Your horse should track up or over track to the same degree with each hind limb.  He should not drag his toes or show a higher ‘ark of flight’ with any one limb compared with another.  From the back view, the degree of ‘hip drop’ on each side of his pelvis should be similar and he should move in straight line.

 

Careful observation of the way your horse stands can also give important clues.  Is he resting a leg?  Does he always rest the same leg?  Does he shift his weight frequently?  Are his pastern angles the same? Keep a note of filling or heat in legs.  Know what’s normal for your horse.

 

Horses which are uncomfortable also often alter their natural stance, so watch your horse standing at rest.  For example, a horse with back pain may stand like a ‘goat on a rock’ with all four feet a little too far underneath him in attempt to arch his back slightly up, away from pain.  The horse pictured had substantial ligament damage in his back and often stood in a way slightly reminiscent of a pony with laminitis, with front feet slightly too far forward, dipping his back down and away from the discomfort he was feeling.  Standing with the hind legs in the banks of the bedding is also a common way for horses to attempt to relieve back pain.

Click to enlarge photo

Question any unusual under-development or over-development of muscles. This horse was diagnosed with ligament damage in his back and muscle ‘splinting’ can be seen which has developed in an attempt to keep the area stabilised.

 

Standing your horse up square and taking time to observe muscle development is also a useful exercise.  Any uneven development on one side compared with the other means your horse is not working straight or evenly.  This will lead to back pain.  If your horse has an underdeveloped ‘top line’ he has not built up the right muscles to carry a rider comfortably and may well get sore in his back.  Any horse with a tendency to ‘go hollow’ will also tend to be sore in its back – imagine dipping your back and then carrying a heavy rucksack around on it all day!  You might also question if there is an obvious underdevelopment or overdevelopment of any other muscle groups, even if they are matched either side of the horse.

 

Observation of your horse can give clues, however, only palpation will provide the definitive answer to the question: ‘has my horse got a sore back?’   Accurate and subtle palpation and understanding the horse’s reaction takes years of practice, however, I would encourage anyone interested in the welfare of their horse to try and learn the basics of this important skill.

 

Use the flat one hand to gently but firmly stroke along your horses back in the direction of the tail.  Move your hand slowly and use enough pressure to see your horse’s skin bulge in front of your hand as it moves along his back – a little like the bow wave in front of a ship.  Keep your fingers together and apply pressure evenly across your hand.  At the same time watch for a reaction from your horse.  Does he move away, dip his back away or alter his stance in anyway?  Crucially, is this reaction repeatable – particularly when you reach a certain area?

 

As well as reaction, you need to learn to assess muscle tone.  Feel the different contours and ‘softness’ or ‘firmness’ of the muscles as you palpate his back.  Feel also for the different temperatures.  Compare one side of his back to the other.  A firm, or even solid, cold area can denote muscle spasm.  A warm soft area is usually relaxed muscle, well supplied by circulation.  If you have a sensitive horse you may notice ‘quivering’ of muscles in his back on palpation.  This is muscle fasciculation or involuntary muscle twitch where you have come into contact with a stress point in a sore muscle.

 

It is  not possible to cover all the signs that your horse might have a sore back in the space of this short article so, if you are in any doubt at all about the wellbeing of your horse’s back, then consult with your Vet, McTimoney Practitioner or Chartered Physiotherapist.  It is always worth getting your horse’s back checked by one of these properly qualified professionals every 6 months to a year, depending on how much work your horse is in.  Early or regular maintenance treatment of your horse’s back will prevent long term patterns of compensation developing which are generally harder to alleviate.

———

Mel Betts

About Mel Betts.  Mel has recently relocated from Devon to Herefordshire.  She has a Masters Degree in McTimoney Animal Therapy and treats horses and dogs. Mel also trained with Mary Bromiley, world leading authority on equine sports massage and physiotherapist to the New Zealand Olympic equestrian teams, and has an ITEC Diploma in Equine Sports Massage and is also a qualified ITEC Holistic Human Massage Therapist.


Equine Cushings Disease (ECD)


Equine Cushings Disease (ECD)

Equine Cushings Disease (ECD)

ECD is a condition that mainly affects middle aged to older horses and ponies caused by an abnormality of the pituarity gland leading to overproduction of hormones and cortisol. This leads to the classic signs associated with the disease such as a long curly coat, lethargy, laminitis, weight loss, increased drinking and secondary infections. The diagnosis of the disease is made by clinical assessment and a variety of blood tests. The treatment includes management changes, for example clipping as required, good feeding and dental care, treatment of laminitis if present and medication. The different types of available medication are all given orally and usually improve the horse’s condition in 6-8 weeks. There are many conditions that can affect older equidae so please contact us if you have any concerns about your horse or pony’s health.

Article reproduced with kind permission from the Three Counties Equine Hospital, Stratford Bridge,  Ripple,  Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire  GL20 6HE Tel: (01684) 592099  |  Fax: (01684) 592181  |  Accounts: (01684) 591260 e. info@tceh.co.uk . www.tceh.co.uk


Digital Infrared Thermal Imaging

DITI (Digital Infrared Thermal Imaging) is a non-invasive diagnostic test of physiology that has evolved over the last 20 years. DITI has been recognised as a useful tool in the early identification of musculoskeletal and neurological injuries, especially non-specific (and difficult to diagnose) lameness. The ability to detect inflammatory and neurological processes at an early stage can be critical to evaluation and recovery. DITI is unique in its ability to show physiological abnormalities and can graphically display and record subjective feeling of pain by objectively displaying changes in the skins surface temperature that accompanies a state of pain.

DITI allows the examiner to visualize and quantify changes in skin surface temperature. An infrared scanning device is used to convert infrared radiation emitted from the skin surface into electrical impulses that are visualized in colour on a monitor. This visual image graphically maps the body temperature and is referred to as a thermogram.

The spectrum of colours indicate an increase or decrease in the amount of infrared radiation being emitted from the body surface. Since there is a high degree of thermal symmetry in the normal body, subtle abnormal temperature changes can be easily identified. DITI can provide information about an animal’s response to treatment as well as the effects of injury, disease or prescribed treatment.

DITI can help to:

·         Diagnose and locate soft tissue injuries

·         Define the extent of a lesion of which a diagnosis has previously been made

·         Localise an abnormal area not previously identified, so further diagnostic tests can be performed

·         Detect early lesions and disease before they are clinically evident

·         Monitor the healing process before your horse is returned to training

Equine Lameness

Lower limb and foot problems can be difficult to diagnose and treat and Digital Infrared Thermal Imaging (DITI) can help with both. Accurate and early diagnosis while injuries and diseases are still in the sub-clinical (before lameness) stage provides for better treatment options and a better outcome (either prevention or earlier return to training / competition). Once lameness has occurred finding the source of the issues and providing the correct treatment is top priority. DITI can help to detect intermittent or non-specific lameness whether it is neurological or musculoskeletal. Conditions such as early stage pedal osteitis, navicular disease, foot abscess, laminitis and many more can be evaluated with DITI.

The aim of DITI is to locate the primary source of lameness as well as any secondary issues that may go unnoticed or untreated. DITI is completely non-invasive and can evaluate the whole horse (not just where the issue is thought to be) in a matter of minutes.

·         Tendon and ligament injuries can be detected long before they cause lameness and break-down. Published studies have shown that thermography can detect tendon lesions 6-8 weeks before they become clinically evident.

·         Joint problems can be evaluated for inflammation (arthritis) degenerative changes, and can help x-ray locate problems such as chip fractures and difficult to image stress fractures that may otherwise only be seen with scintigraphy (nuclear bone scan).

·         Lameness due to pain may not be caused by any local structural problem. DITI can evaluate the cause of lameness due to referred pain syndromes such as nerve entrapments as well as other vascular, neurological and musculoskeletal pain syndromes

Back Issues & Saddle Testing

Back problems are very often an indicator that there is something wrong in a different part of the body. When injured, a horse will very often compensate for the injury by transferring its weight to the uninjured side. This can cause excessive stress along the spine resulting in long term problems if it is not detected. Back issues and saddle fit can be a confusing issue for both horse owners and professionals, helping to confirm which area is the primary concern is always the first step with DITI.

Back pain or poor saddle fit can result in uncharacteristic behaviour such as bucking, rearing, becoming disunited, uneven gait and a general reduced performance. DITI can visualise this pain and highlight abnormalities within the back or other areas of the body that can be identified, diagnosed & treated.

Good saddle fitting is essential to prevent back injury or discomfort. A horse’s back changes over time through age, natural development and the impact of training and conditioning. Stress and injury can result if saddles are not fitted correctly.

A DITI saddle examination can detect the effects of saddle fit and any developing problems caused by the saddle or rider’s position in the saddle. As a simple test of physiology it can provide valuable information for a saddler and help solve any confusion as to why the horse may not be performing well.

Nb.:

Equiscan offer a unique medical grade Digital Infrared Thermal Imaging service to horse owners, vets, trainers and equine professionals, using screening devices designed specifically for veterinary and medical testing. We provide you with accurate and objective results to aid diagnosis, treatment and rehabilitation.  For further details please visit www.equiscan.co.uk or contact us via email at info@equiscan.co.uk or telephone 0845 519 5971/07939 037292.

Dianne Foulkes

Veterinary Thermographer ACCT


Beau – A Canker Case History

Nicola Battersby is a happily married mother of two and the proud accidental owner of a 16.2hh KWPN Gelding by Corland called Beau that she bought in March 2010.  Initially Nicola was looking for a horse to do some dressage on, but fell in love with the unbroken 4 year old grey gelding when she visited a yard in Manchester to see another horse.  Caution went by the wayside, the monies were paid and Beau duly arrived at the family home in North Wales.

In September her farrier suspected Beau had thrush and so advised Nicola to use a combination of Hydrogen peroxide and Teramycin.  Beau also had sheared heels which meant that he could be pre disposed to Thrush but Ian again said it was a case of stable management and not a problem.  On 25th Feb 2011 Nicola noticed a small white growth on the side of the frog. A ten month nightmare was about to begin which would involve three general anaesthetics, a priest, rosary beads, prayers, Holy Water, the internet and America.

Upon the advice of her farrier Beau was taken to the Veterinary Practise of Richard Owen and Associates on March 2nd and he underwent deep debridement under sedation, nerve block and biopsies.  Canker was diagnosed in both back feet on 7th March.    Canker generally proves to be fatal and Nicola now believes that it is far more common than perhaps previously believed.

1st March after surgery

That Tuesday 8th March Beau endured the first of three general anaesthetics while the assigned vet cut away as much of the tissue as she could to reveal healthy tissue.  Plates and bar shoes were put on a week later.  Alkaline cream was applied every day to try and dry the feet out.  At this point Nicola was told of the full severity of the case and not to be too hopeful.

At this juncture they were soaking the foot daily in Formaldehyde. A gruesome procedure for the most hardened.   Beau never complained, kicked out, fidgeted.  It was as if he knew he was being helped and placed his trust in the people around him.  A concrete paddock was created to keep the canker out in the air while Beau stood and endured the treatments.  To their horror the canker grew back within days.

Nicola then received unwelcome news from her Insurance Company on April 8th.  They were refusing to pay out, citing the sheared heels as the reason, despite the successful five stage vetting.  Costs were escalating beyond control and yet Nicola still persisted with the aid of her Vet who agreed to minimise the costs.  Beau’s tolerance, bravery and patience had captured the imagination of the yard and everyone who met him.  Beau was re-admitted to the Vets on 18th April, and was brought home the next day to keep expenses down.  The farrier then phoned to say that it was the worst case he had ever seen or even heard of, and advised Nicola to think long and hard about whether it was fair to continue.

Amazingly he was still sound despite the foot being completely sodden and putrid.

At her wits end, Nicola then received an astonishing phone call on the 7th May from the local Monastery.  A lady there called Anne had heard of Beau’s plight and was most insistent that she’d had a calling from God to come and see him.  Anne arrived bringing with her a powerful Holy relic, rosary beads,  Holy Water, a Blessed medal for his mane and the advice to recite the prayer ‘The Divine Mercy’ at 3pm every day.  “If God wants him, He will take him” were her words.  Nicola has been Christened and Confirmed but is not a practising Catholic and was a little bit reticent. And Beau is definitely not religious in any way apart from being one of God’s creatures..

The Canker grew back again within days and Nicola had an argument over the phone with the Vet who was insistent that she was being unfair on Beau, he would never be cured, and to call it a day.  Nicola refused and demanded that they operate again.  This time on 13th May, and with the support of her sister, she insisted on holding Beau’s foot herself while the procedure took place insisting “I am doing this for the horse, not me”.   Poor Beau leant dribbling against the wall, and kept turning his head to look back at her as the pool of blood spread around them, but still never reacted or tried to harm anyone.

That weekend the canker grew back.  Yet again.

Then on 17th May some prayers appeared to be answered.  The insurers had done a U-Turn having received letters from both the original vet and Derek Knottenbolt of Leahurst in defence of the case.  On 18th May Beau was taken to Leahurst to be assessed.

Nicola pleaded with them to try anything, something, any new treatment, but the severity of the physical evidence resulted in a negative but realistic response and the dreaded words “Normally they have to be put down”.  However Beau trotted up sound, and there was a change in attitude.  He was taken safely home.

Evenings were spent researching the condition on the Internet.  Maybe the persistent cutting away and the subsequent bleeding was allowing the bacteria to penetrate deeper, creating an inlet?  Nicola bought a cream from America that was created from ingredients found in the Amazonian Rain Forest and started to apply that.  Praying for some divine intervention.  The cream did not help.  At this point Richard Owen MRCVS took over sensing the desperation that was involved in such a highly emotional case.

On the 19th May the entire Battersby Family were called to be blessed at the Monastery  by Father Keith.   Beau’s boots were dipped in Holy Water, and by this time Nicola’s husband thought she was quite mad.  Still Nicola persisted. A month later his condition worsened and it was decided that he should enjoy a few final happy weeks in the field with the sun on his back.  Nicola promised him and herself that as soon as he became lame the fight would stop.  Until that time she visited him twice a day and every day at 3pm to continue with prayer of ‘The Divine Mercy’ have a cry, and share some time.  Beau knew the routine by now and would dip his head.

At the end of June the family were booked to go on holiday and decided to honour the arrangement, and have a break from all the angst and tears. The canker was still growing.  However on 16th June Father Keith called and insisted on coming out to see Beau himself, complete in Holy Habit with wellies.  He spent over an hour with Beau, blessing him, his field and running powerful oil into his leg.  Beau never flinched or reacted.

Before leaving on holiday on 25th June Nicola again went to see Beau and during their regular 3pm commune Beau snatched the rosary beads, crunched them, and stood with the crucifix hanging from his mouth.  On another day it could have been funny, or even symbolic, but on that day it was not.   Fortunately Anne from the Monastery subsequently  visited on 3rd July and it.

2nd July hoof collapsing

The holiday provided a brief respite with Nicola heeding Anne’s words “Leave him and have Faith”. Sadly during their time away the inside hoof wall had snapped and come away due to the pressure and Beau was lame and in pain.  Nicola had to honour her promise, she called Richard.  It was Monday 4th July.

Richard Owen wanted to come out immediately but due to the terms of the insurance he had to clarify the situation with them first and ensure that Beau was being destroyed for humane reasons and not for loss of use.  Richard argued that the level of pain required for humane destruction was inevitable and only a few days away, but the insurance company insisted on their terms and conditions, so Beau earned himself a brief reprieve.

For a horse that had fought so bravely and remained kind and gentle, the sense of loss was acute for all those around him.  Everyone came to say Goodbye to him in the field, and yet Nicola was still praying for something to intervene, despite even Richard finally admitting defeat.

That night Nicola discovered Stephen O’Grady on the internet, an equine podiatrist based in Virginia, USA with a 100% success rate of curing Canker and emailed him.  He emailed back immediately with instructions to follow in minute detail, insisting on communicating with Richard Owen.  The procedure involved cutting the foot to the bone, freezing it (cryotherapy) defrosting the foot, re-freezing it, defrosting it again, then applying crushed tablets of Metronidazole, covering with acetone soaked gauze to dry out the foot, then using foot putty to create a sole and maintain pressure on the frog.  This technique had never been used in the UK before.

3rd July 2011

(Have copied and pasted below the fine details from the podiatry website -

Treatment consists of thorough careful debridement of the affected tissue followed by a regimen of topical therapy applied daily and continued until the disease is resolved. To debride the affected tissue, the horse can be placed under general anaesthesia or regional anaesthesia can be used with the horse standing. The horse’s foot is trimmed appropriately removing all loose exfoliating sole as well as any excess toe or heel. The use of a tourniquet is essential. Firm pressure is placed across the vascular bundles over the abaxial surface of the sesamoids using either an Esmarch a bandage or simply a few tight turns of a cohesive bandage. Debridement can be performed in two ways. One author (JBM) uses electric cautery with the horse under general anaesthesia while the other author (SEO) uses a sharp hoof knife and a number 12 scalpel blade followed by cryotherapy with the horse standing. All abnormal tissue is removed down to normal corium. A clear demarcation will be seen between normal and abnormal tissue. It is important not to remove excessive corium as this will retard cornification following surgery and may decrease the quality and depth of new sole being produced. It may be helpful to remove 1-2cm of normal tissue around the wound margins to ensure all abnormal tissue is removed. 5 If the decision has been made to place the horse under general anaesthesia, use of a typical cautery handle in the cut mode allows accurate excision of hoof tissue including frog and normal horny sole. The handle used in this way will rapidly cut through sole and frog leaving only a dry eschar behind. The cautery tip may be bent as needed to undermine the base of the mass. Debridement can be carried out in the same manner using a sharp hoof knife and is followed by cryotherapy to freeze the area that has been debrided. Liquid nitrogen has always been used for this purpose but another practical method is to freeze the debrided area with a coolant spray b that is available for electrical circuits. The area of the foot that has been debrided will be soft and pliable. Freeze this affected area until the tissue becomes hard (known as hard freeze), allow the area to thaw and then repeat the freeze once more. Gauze 4 x 4 sponges soaked in a solution of 10% benzoyl peroxide in acetone c and sprinkled with a fine powder made by crushing metronidazole tablets with a mortar and pestle or a pill grinder are then packed in the defect. In large defects, to help insure contact of the medication in the depths of the wound and to minimize the production of exuberant granulation tissue, a putty elastomer material is used to form an insert to fit in the bottom of the foot (Fig 4).

The impression material should not extend below the bearing surface of the hoof wall as this will create excessive pressure and make the horse sore. The foot is then bandaged with a dry bandage. The affected area is cleaned daily with surgical scrub, rinsed with saline, dried with a paper towel and the topical medication reapplied. It is crucial to keep the animal in a dry environment. A shoe with a treatment plate can also be used but it is sometimes hard to keep the foot as dry as necessary with this method. The authors prefer the use of bandages. Small reoccurrences may be managed with the horse standing and local anesthesia using either laser photoablation or cryotherapy. The use of systemic antibiotics such as chloramphenicol or oxytetracycline have been advocated but these authors question the use as the cases treated have resolved with local treatment only.4 A commitment is necessary from the owners, as aftercare will take several weeks to months depending on the stage of the disease until the affected tissue is cornified (Fig 5).)

Beau’s procedure was scheduled for that Thursday, however an Emergency call out resulted in it being delayed until 3pm on Friday 8th July. The most sacred and powerful time and day in the Vatican.  The operation was four hours long, and The Prayer of Divine Mercy was recited throughout by his supporters.  Beau spent a further four weeks in the hospital recovering and being monitored.  The words “It will take a miracle” had been answered.  It was the most severe case of canker that had ever been seen.

Beau is now back in work and being hailed as a ‘Miracle Horse’.  Nicola has just clipped him and has never been so happy to do such a dirty job.

His owner Nicola has been so determined throughout the entire experience to help others, that had they not managed to save Beau she had already arranged to donate his body to Leahurst for research purposes. Beau and Nicola now wish to undertake some type of work for the ‘Make A Wish Foundation’ to help disadvantaged children and help re-pay the enormous debt that they feel they owe ‘out there’. Nicola still says her prayer with the Rosary Beads at 3pm each day. Just in case.

August 2011

18th Oct 2011

22nd Oct

image

Beau and Nicola, December 2011

image of hoof sole

December 2011

image

Nicola with Beau, December 2011


The owner Nicola has all the veterinary documentation and the photographs that diarise the entire episode. All the parties involves are more than happy to speak about the case in an effort to raise awareness and celebrate a successful outcome.

For more information please contact: Maria Wynne at Eqwynne@googlemail.com or 07717298182




Winter Care of the Horse or Pony: Common Conditions & Disorders

Under normal circumstances the horse’s skin and protective coat form effective barriers against the winter elements. However, in very wet and muddy conditions this natural barrier can often be compromised and infectious agents (pathogens) gain entry and cause infection.  This can result in the relatively common bacterial infections: rain scald, mud fever and hunting dermatitis.

Winter Rain Scald ( Dermatophilosis)

Winter rain scald is an inflammatory skin disease caused by the invasion of the bacterium Dermatophilus. As the name suggests, the condition may arise when the horse is subject to prolonged rainfall and the resultant wetting of the coat. Therefore this problem most frequently affects grass kept horses during the winter months.

There are a number of factors which may pre-dispose the horse to this condition, such as:

  • Conditions of persistent driving rain
  • Inadequate access to shelter (either man-made or natural)
  • Horses with fine coats and thin skins such as Thoroughbreds, Arabs and some sports horses are at increased risk.

Once the disease is established the signs of winter rain scald make diagnosis quite straightforward, but unfortunately the early signs in grass kept horses can easily missed. This is especially so during the darker winter months, when day length is so short.

If affected, the horse’s coat will have a matted and crusted appearance; small bumps can be felt under the skin. There may be a serous (clear) discharge coming from the affected area and the hair will be tufted. Once the scabs fall off, the skin underneath will be sore and may have some purulent (pus filled) discharge). Affected areas will have severe hair loss (alopecia) which will follow the areas of the horse most commonly soaked by rainwater. Indeed, rugged horses may be affected, if leaking rugs are not removed and replaced with dry ones.

In very severe cases the condition can cause un-thriftiness, weight loss, fever and can be debilitating; it should be considered to be welfare issue. Veterinary consultation should be sought for the treatment of rain scald. Prevention can be achieved through the use of correctly fitting waterproof rugs (which should be changed if they become soaked through), adequate shelter and by supply of a nutritionally balanced diet to ensure general well-being and successful skin and hair regeneration.

Equine Pastern Dermatitis (EPD or Mud Fever)

Equine Pastern Dermatitis (EPD) is more commonly referred to as mud fever, mud rash, greasy or cracked heels. The bacterium involved is usually D. congolesis, which also causes both rain scald and hunting dermatitis.

The condition has typical clinical signs of: Serious discharge, crusted areas and hair loss first  appearing in the bulb of the heels and then spreading into the back of the pastern. Often the scabbed area will become secondarily infected with another bacterium and the infection will worsen. The infection can progress to limb inflammation (with associated swelling, heat & pain) and lameness will ensue.

The cause of mud fever can be multi-factorial (i.e. have a range of different causes) but is most commonly due to prolonged wetting of the coat and exposure to deep muddy conditions. The disorder is also more common in horses with copious feather, as the early signs of infection can easily be missed.

Acute and severe cases of mud fever MUST be seen by the veterinarian. This includes; any lameness, limb swelling, marked discharge or odour. Mild cases can be managed successfully by the owner and will generally require the horse to be stabled until the skin is healed, or at the very least be kept in a dry, mud-free environment. Treatment will involve keeping the limbs clean and dry, cleansing the legs with mild antiseptic shampoo and the application of topical antiseptic treatment. It may be necessary to clip the legs, but this should be done with extreme care.

Always seek veterinary advice when deciding upon the correct choice of treatment. If veterinary assistance is required, it is likely that systemic antibiotics will be given and a supportive topical (skin) treatment.

Mud fever prevention is always preferable to treatment and this can be achieved through good husbandry.  The horse should have access to shelter and the ability to avoid deep mud, keep the limbs clean and dry whenever possible and carefully check  the lower limbs during the winter, paying particular attention to heavily feathered limbs.

Hunting dermatitis (Ventral Trunk Mud Fever)

Hunt horses or those working/ competing in wet and muddy conditions through the winter months, such as team-chasers, point to pointers and National Hunt racehorses, are most commonly affected by ventral trunk mud fever.

This bacterial skin condition affects the ventral abdomen (belly) and inside of fore and hind legs. Clinical signs are likely to appear quickly (i.e. the evening of a hunting day) and veterinary consultation may be needed if the horse is very sore. If a mild case, careful owner management can be successful. Mild antiseptic shampoo in warm water should be used to remove mud, drying the area in a hygienic manner through the use of clean towels and ensure that the bedding is clean.

With a mild case, the horse is likely to be off work for a number of days and hard (concentrate) feed should be reduced accordingly. The horse should be effectively sick nursed.

Veterinary treatment must be sought for severe cases or mild cases which fail to respond to owner management or quickly resolve. Veterinary treatment will involve oral antibiotic therapy.

As with all other Dermatophilosis conditions, all treatments should be continued until all of the affected skin is healed, with close attention to husbandry and hygiene maintained throughout to minimise the risk of re-infection and further complication.

Sudden Acute Lameness

In wet and muddy conditions small cuts and wounds on the lower limbs can easily be missed and pathogens can gain entry, resulting in minor infections. Any incidence of unexplained sudden lameness should initially be treated through careful inspection of the limbs and foot. Veterinary consultation is recommended and is likely to involve trimming away surrounding hair before careful cleansing of the affected area with warm antiseptic solution and cotton wool swabs. If the wound is away from joint, poulticing may be used to draw out any deep seated infection. If a poultice is applied too close to a joint there is risk of drawing out the lubricating fluid from around the joint; which can have serious consequences.

The horse will most probably require stabling during the treatment period. If the horse is not vaccinated against tetanus, the veterinarian will give an anti-tetanus injection, as the pathogen causing tetanus ( Clostidium tetani) is a soil-borne organism and may have gained entry into the body via the wound. Ideally ALL horses should be routinely vaccinated against tetanus.

If the horse has unexplained sudden lameness and a wound cannot be found; the injury may be a puncture wound. This type of wound can be quite common if hedges surrounding the field have thorns.  The affected area will be quite painful, inflamed and hot; all of which will worsen if untreated. Veterinarian assistance should be sought as these infections can become quite nasty. Oral antibiotics may be given if the Vet is unable to remove the thorn and the area should be poulticed.

Finally, the condition pus in the foot may occur during the muddy winter months when the risk of bacterial infection tracking into any small puncture wound is heightened.  Pus in the foot is well recognised as a common form of lameness in the horse and is caused by a bacterial infection of the vascular layer of the solar corium (internal to hoof wall), via a penetrating foreign object.

The condition may be sudden in onset or gradual and is identified by the following clinical signs:

  • Pain- either lameness or on use of hoof testers
  • Inflammation – detected as heat in the foot

If not treated, lameness will progressively worsen and may even result in a systemic infection (i.e. one which affects the whole of the body and is not isolated to one localised area).  Treatment requires the application of a warm poultice to draw out the infection. This is now most commonly achieved through the use of an Animalintex™ poultice but can also be done using the more laborious technique of tubbing.  Tubbing requires the animal to stand with the affected foot submerged in a bucket of saline solution for approximately 10 minutes twice daily (a technique which is often not easy achieved).

Many of these conditions can be avoided with the application of good husbandry and a watchful eye. Equally, if they are encountered careful management can help to resolve the problem quickly. However, conditions which are serious, do not respond to management/ treatment or quickly improve should always be seen by the Vet; as should all problems for which the owner is uncertain.

Alison Pyatt BSc (Hons) PgD, PGCE, BHS IT, is a Lecturer in Animal Science at Harper Adams University College specialising in large animal health and disease. She also owns and runs a small livery and training yard, Glebe Farm Equestrian, which based in South Shropshire. Glebe Farm Equestrian specialise in breaking and schooling and the retraining of racehorses.

www.gfeq.co.uk


Sustainable worming and the value of worm egg counts

Worming has changed over the past 50 years since broad spectrum wormers were introduced  in the 1960’s. Back then the main worm being targeted was the large redworm (strongylus vulgaris). This parasite can cause damage to blood vessels that can lead to fatal colic. However over the past 50 years this parasite has become uncommon and is now only present in very low numbers in the population.

The small redworms (cyathastomins) have adapted over this time by rising to the challenge of the wormers. Wormer chemicals are called anthelmintics, and when these stop working  by not reducing the worm burden by a set level we call this anthelmintic resistance. Resistance has been reported worldwide in small redworms and round worms.  Because there are no plans to develop new worming chemicals for horses in the near future,  it is paramount that we make the drugs we have last for as long as possible.  Unfortunately anthelmintic resistance is inevitable in the long term.

The problem with blanket worming all horses at a yard at the same time with the same wormer is that we are treating them for worms when they might not have enough to need treating. It would be unlikely that you would feed each horse on a yard exactly the same feed because some will be good doers, some poor doers, some sharp and some not so sharp. We feed them individually because we take into consideration their individual needs. Worming is exactly the same, some horses immune systems will help suppress parasitic infections whereas others will have weaker immune systems that will require more chemical wormer support.

The first step is to check how effective your past worming programme has been by doing a worm egg count. Worm egg counts are by no means new, they have been used in veterinary practice for over 50 years. Only in the past decade have the use of worm egg counts become common practice in sustainable worming programmes. Worm egg counts give us an indication of a horses intestinal parasite status, when used as a tool in an Intelligent Worming programme it is possible to get a much clearer picture of a horses worm burden.

There is a danger with worm egg counts that if the results are not interpreted correctly and are not acted on by a professional who understands them, then the horse in question will not be treated appropriately. One worm egg count is a snapshot of the adult parasite egg laying activity at that time, a pattern of scheduled egg counts over time will provide a much clearer picture of a horses worm burden than just one .

It is also important to take into consideration all of the risk factors a horse is exposed to by which it may pick up intestinal worms. By looking at the all the risk factors it is possible to then build an Intelligent Worming programme for each horse treating their individual needs.

When looking at a group of horses 80% of the parasite population is found in 20% of the horses.  There will generally be one or two with high worm burdens that will require more treatments and those with lower worm burdens that will need much less wormer support because the body’s immune system can cope much better fighting off the worms.

Worm egg counts cannot pick up all of the intestinal parasites of horses. Firstly they can only detect adult females that are laying eggs.  Worm egg counts cannot detect any larvae present because they are not adult worms and therefore they are not laying eggs. Worm eggs counts cannot detect encysted small redworms either as these are also immature larvae during the encysted stage.

Worm egg counts cannot reliably detect tapeworm in a standard test due to the tapeworms life cycle, there are other faecal tests that can be used or there is a blood test that can be used to detect tapeworm. The blood test is a handy tool if an infection is expected but is not commonly used in routine worming programmes. Tapeworms due to their lifecycle only need treating twice per year.

Additionally both bots and pinworms cannot be detected in worm egg counts due to the way they complete their life cycles.  Because these worms cannot be detected some  wormers will be required to treat against the parasites that cannot be detected. In the case of pinworms if they are present they will often emerge in the dung and at this stage appropriate management and treatment can follow.

By only treating horses when it is necessary it is possible to make the use of wormers much more sustainable. Intelligent Worming is the only company that specialise in equine intestinal parasite control. Each horse is looked at as an individual, they are risk assessed, worm egg counted and programmes are individually written for each horse. At the end of each year the programme is reviewed so the strategy going forward can be planned. The long term aim, where possible, is to reduce the use of chemical wormers which will save you money and ensure your horses health is not at risk of parasitic infections.

For further information on how Intelligent Worming can work for your horses please contact our Equine Advisors on 01267 22 33 22 or visit www.intelligentworming.co.uk .


Going barefoot – a new approach to healing

An article by Angela Corner AANHCP Certified Practitioner

Most alternative therapies can equally be described as natural therapies – side stepping the use of drugs or surgery to aid problems using natural, non-invasive methods. In other words working with natures own healing powers as opposed to bull dozing nature out of the way in favour of human inventiveness. The equine has evolved over millions of years without intervention from man – nature has produced an incredible, adaptable creature whose number one instinct is to survive. This survival instinct means that the horse’s body is pre-programmed to do everything it can to heal itself in times of injury or illness.  As human beings we can aid this survival instinct and help the horse use what nature has already provided or we can believe we know better than 64 million years of evolution.

Most natural therapies are well publicised but one that is perhaps not so well known is removing a horse’s shoes and going barefoot. Barefoot for sound and healthy horses is fairly widely known about and often hotly debated  – there are many barefoot endurance horses out there competing, from the lowest levels up to and including the World Equestrian Games, but barefoot as a healing tool? That may be a new one for many people.

The fastest growing area that barefoot is being used in is the treatment of navicular and navicular syndrome. Traditionally the diagnosis of navicular has been the beginning of the end of a horse’s competitive career. Ridden careers have been prolonged by the use of remedial shoeing and drug treatments but a ‘cure’ is simply not possible. However by looking again at the causes of navicular and navicular syndrome the exponents of natural hoof care have found that removing shoes and rehabilitating the feet can bring horses back to full soundness.

It’s important to understand what is actually happening when we talk about navicular and navicular syndrome. Navicular is generally taken to mean the condition where there are changes to the navicular bone seen on x-rays/MRI scans. Navicular syndrome is taken to mean where no bony changes can be seen but the pain is located in the back of the foot/heel area.

Traditionally it was believed that navicular began with the bony changes – the causes not quite understood but thought to be from lack of blood supply to the bone, poor circulation and a long toe/low heel hoof conformation. However research has shown that the condition begins not with the navicular bone at all but rather with soft tissue damage at the back of the foot, most usually to the deep digital flexor tendon and/or impar ligament. The damage, if left untreated, eventually results in degradation of the navicular bone. In a research study undertaken by Dr James Rooney of the American College of Veterinarian Pathologists he found not one single case in which the damage to the bone was beginning of the condition. Prior damage to the tendons and ligaments was always present.

What causes this damage to the soft tissues in the back of the foot?

For this we have to consider the natural locomotion of the limb. The hoof has evolved to most commonly land heel first. When this occurs the deep digital flexor tendon is tightened by the descending fetlock joint. As the foot then rocks forwards towards breakover the deep flexor tendon is loosened. However in an incorrect toe first landing the descending fetlock joint tightens the tendon just after impact. The heel then rocks downwards tightening the tendon even further. This exerts a far greater force on the whole system than nature ever intended and over time leads to damage of this pulley system – tearing of the impar ligament and damage to the deep flexor tendon. Navicular syndrome!

So why do some horses land toe first?

The digital cushion is the nerve centre of the foot – most of the proprioceptors are contained there, it’s how the horse feels his way and is therefore a sensitive area.  The digital cushion needs to be strong and well developed in order to protect the nerves. If the digital cushion is weak and under developed the horse will feel too much and start to land toe first to avoid the pain.

A strong digital cushion requires stimulation and circulation. From the moment a foal is born the development of the digital cushion should begin. Unfortunately most foals spend their lives on unchallenging surfaces – grass not rocks – so the development of the digital cushion never gets the kick-start it needs. Once the youngster is shod the situation can never improve. The shoe prevents the frog contacting the floor and the whole foot from expanding and contracting. This lack of expansion and contraction, contact with the ground and reduced circulation means the digital cushion never develops as it should. And once the horse begins to land toe first the situation becomes an even more vicious circle. Sooner or later the toe first landing will cause soft tissue damage and the horse will begin to exhibit lameness.

So how can barefoot help?

There’s nothing magical or mysterious. Simply by allowing the hoof mechanism to function as nature intended, restoring the circulation to the foot, allowing that expansion and contraction and stimulation from contact with the ground, the digital cushion begins to develop strength. Once the digital cushion strengthens the horse can start to land heel first again, the soft tissue damage can heal and be prevented from reoccurring. The process of achieving a strong foot consists of slow work on a variety of hard surfaces, in-hand at first if necessary, increasing the length of time and distance covered as you would in any general fitness program. Hoof boots can be used in the beginning if the horse is ultra sensitive or has extremely damaged feet. Trims to the feet are done as and when necessary to ensure the foot is balanced but nothing ‘remedial’ is done via a trim as the hoof will grow exactly as it needs to in order to become sound.

Barefoot rehabilitation is about growing a strong and healthy foot that can function as it’s supposed to so that it can protect itself from damage. With a strong healthy foot the horse will become sound and able to return to whatever level of work they were performing at before their lameness. There is a caveat here though. Keeping a horse successfully working hard without shoes is not just a case of going through the rehabilitation/transition process and then returning to the same management routine as before the shoes were removed. Changes to the diet are essential, as is regular stimulation of the foot on a variety of surfaces. A low sugar/starch diet will ensure the hooves are well fed whilst only ever working on soft surfaces will not stimulate the digital cushion enough to ensure it remains strong enough to protect that bundle of nerves. Think of the hoof a bit like a muscle  – we must keep working it, feed it right and keep it fit to do the job we want it to do. If we neglect any of the three aspects – trim, diet, exercise – then the foot will weaken again and the symptoms of navicular may eventually return. The same applies if the horse is shod once sound. If the feet have been fully restored to health then putting shoes back on will have no obvious short term adverse affects but long term the same process is likely to occur – weakening of the foot leading to faulty locomotion leading to soft tissue damage.

The act of removing the shoes of navicular syndrome horses can be quite dramatic – some will go sound immediately, but for others with a greater degree of damage the process will take longer. Whilst most success from using barefoot to rehabilitate navicular syndrome horses is anecdotal there is a research project currently being conducted in the UK involving Professor Peter Clegg at the University of Liverpool, Jeremy Hyde of Eqwest Veterinary hospital and Rockley Farm on Exmoor. The published results so far are based on 13 horses, 10 who have completed their rehab and three who are at various stages through it. Eight out of the ten have returned to full soundness and are back in work, including hunting and jumping.  Seven out of these ten have been reassessed by their referring vet and their improvement and/or return to soundness confirmed. Jaime Jackson in the USA reports that he has never known a navicular syndrome case not come sound once its shoes were removed. The position is slightly less clear where there is significant damage to the navicular bone. Whilst improvement is seen a return to full soundness is probably harder to achieve although there have been reported cases of the bone remodelling following barefoot rehabilitation. However more research is needed in this area.

Barefoot rehab can help other conditions as well as navicular. In fact many people turn to barefoot when everything else has failed with their particular horse. Tendon and ligament problems further up the limb can be caused from the incorrect locomotion of the toe first landing just as damage occurs within the foot. Once correct locomotion is restored and the tendon injury repaired risk of future reinjury is reduced. Other conditions that can be helped are arthritic conditions and joint problems. A barefoot hoof has much greater shock absorption capabilities than an shod hoof due to both the flexibility of the hoof capsule and hemodynamics (as the hoof hits the ground it expands and fills with blood which helps to dissipate the shock waves). This greater ability to absorb shock makes movement much more comfortable for horses with joint issues. This coupled with the increase of circulation in the foot and up the leg – 10% more than in shod horses – can mean that horses previously unsound can come back into full work. It can be a new lease of life for older horses.

Barefoot is showing itself to be a valid and affective alternative to traditional methods. It does tend to be the last resort for many horses where traditional methods have been tried and failed. Perhaps because of this it is even more remarkable that it works so well for so many horses. If you have a horse diagnosed with navicular syndrome then it is well worth trying the barefoot route. Cheaper than drugs and remedial shoeing and time and time again proving more affective. Even the insurance companies are starting to sit up and take note.


Angela Corner is an AANHCP Certified Practitioner and Advanced endurance rider.  Rockcrunchers Barefoot Trimming Services, covers The Midlands, Lincolnshire and the North of England. www.rockcrunchers.co.uk, info@rockcrunchers.co.uk. 07580039882.

AANHCP Certified Natural Hoofcare Practitioner and Barefoot Endurance Rider
Full range of services offered:
Performance hoof trims based on the natural hoof model
Full support during transitioning from shod to barefoot
Advice on diet, environment and overall management of the barefoot horse
Advice on the choosing, fitting and using of hoof boots.
Advice on and management of hoof and hoof related problems – navicular syndrome, laminitis, cracks, flares, poor quality hoof wall, seedy toe, forging, stumbling and over reaching.
Fully insured and member of AANHCP professional organisation.


Going Barefoot – can anyone do it?

An article by Angela Corner – AANHCP Certified Practitioner

You’ve read about it, agonised over it, trawled the internet and talked to horsy friends, your farrier and maybe even the vet but you’ve finally decided to take the shoes off your horse and try going barefoot. It’s a big step – all those centuries of tradition and vast array of opinions and myths that surround it. But what are the no nonsense essentials you really need to know?

Firstly, even before removing the shoes, you have to look at diet. Unless you get the diet right you will never have a sound barefoot horse. Again tradition tells us that horses eat grass and grass is good and natural for them. In fact horses didn’t evolve eating the lush, sugary grasses that we have in our temperate climate. Things are made even worse since demand for food has increased and our ancient meadows have been reseeded with single species ryegrasses – great for fattening livestock quickly but disastrous for horses. Compare these pastures to the horses’ natural diet – grass species that populate high arid regions tend to be tall, stalky and dry, sugar content is very low, fibre content very high. The natural diet also encompasses a huge range of herbs, bushes, bark, twigs and scrub. So when thinking about removing your horses shoes it is hugely beneficial to first move him to the poorest quality grazing available. Most livery yards have a starvation paddock for laminitics – great for barefoot horses too. Your livery yard owner will love you for no longer complaining about the lack of grass! Instead of grass feed hay in the field, soaked if your horse is a good doer. Hay is generally lower in sugar than haylage but if you must feed haylage then try and get second cut mixed species bales. Diet, of course, also encompasses hard feeds. If you must feed a ‘bucket’ feed then ensure that whatever you choose is low in sugar and starch. Many feeds that claim to be non-heating have relatively high sugar/starch content – the feed companies have come a long way in providing more ‘natural’ fibre based feeds but you still need to check the ingredient list closely. If the feed contains molasses then it is safer to avoid it and feed something totally molasses free. Adding a broad spectrum vitamin and mineral supplement is also a good idea but again check those ingredients. Alternatively provide your horse with free access to a mineral block in the field but not one of the blocks made palatable by the addition of sugars or molasses! Following these simple rules and feeding a natural diet will give your horse the best chance of barefoot success.

Why is a low sugar/starch diet so crucial?

Every horse owner knows about laminitis – too rich a diet causes the laminae to inflame, causing foot pain, hoof wall separation and lameness. This same process – rich diet, inflammation, foot pain – occurs on a less acute level in many horses, often repeatedly. This process weakens feet – internally as well as externally – and will make a barefoot horse footy. The shod horse will be footy too but you may not notice as his sole is held off the ground by the shoe. How many shod horses do you hear of who don’t like the hard ground? Or have poor quality hoof wall and lose shoes? Or have white line disease and/or thrush? All these are a result of a diet too high in sugar/starch.

Healthy feet come from a healthy, natural diet. No lotion or potion painted, rubbed or brushed on will change that fact. No one is out in the wilds of Nevada painting hoof moisturiser onto the mustangs’ feet yet they have the healthiest equine feet on the planet.

Okay – you’ve looked at the diet, changed whatever is necessary – now what?

Environment plays a huge part in barefoot success too. Again it goes right back to what is natural, how the horse evolved. The whole physiology of the horse is designed for an animal in almost constant motion. In the wild they will travel up to 20 miles a day, every day of their lives. All their systems – circulatory, digestive, lymphatic – need to be on constant movement to work efficiently. Standing for hour upon hour in a stable is not natural physically or mentally and there is no question that equine physiology suffers as a result – colic, stomach ulcers, joint disease etc etc. Strong barefeet require building and growing and that means movement, lots of it. The only reason you should restrict your barefoot horse to a stable is if it is the only way you can cut his grazing down to a level he can cope with. Otherwise he needs to be out moving – getting his circulation growing, building up the strength in his feet. If you can turn out onto rocky, stony, gravely areas even better. Challenge those feet. If you want to ride a barefoot horse over stony paths then his feet need to be ‘trained’ to get used to them. In the wild the mustangs will gallop over rocks, stones and boulders without a false step but they cover that terrain every day. There is a turnout system called Paddock Paradise that replicates, as best we can in a domestic situation, the natural environment of the horse. Rather than simply turning your horse out into that four acre field fence off a track (electric fencing will do fine) round the perimeter. If he wants to get from one side of the field to the other he has to go right round the field, rather than straight across – making him work harder! This is also a great way of restricting grazing. If you own the land, or have a willing landlord, you can add in areas of stone and rocks that the horses have to walk over and sandy areas for them to roll in. Let your imagination run wild! You are building an equine playground. He’ll move more, stimulate his brain more and as a result will be a happier and easier to handle equine.

Environment and movement also encompasses exercise. Another myth if that barefoot is okay for horses in light work but if you want to compete, hack out for long distances or on roads, or in fact do any serious riding, then you need to put shoes on. Quite the opposite is true. The harder the hooves are worked the stronger and healthier they’ll get. Movement = circulation and stimulation = healthy strong hooves. The wearing of hoof wall by being worked barefoot sends signals through the nervous system to grow more hoof wall and to grow it thicker and faster. If that wasn’t the case how would the mustangs survive – surely they would end up with no hooves left at all? They always grow exactly as much hoof as they need. They might not be carrying the weight of a rider but how many domesticated horses cover 140 miles in a week?

You’ve figured out the diet, understand about the importance of environment and movement – what next?  Now it’s time to take the shoes off.

One of the big debates is should you use a farrier or a barefoot trimmer. If your farrier is fully supportive then absolutely carry on using him. If he doesn’t have all the information about diet and environment then make sure you know yourself exactly what is required. It also helps if you know other people who have barefoot horses – having somewhere to turn to get advice and support is so important. If using your farrier it is also important to ensure they understand about transitioning i.e. the time period between removing the shoes and having a sound horse on all sorts of different terrain. For some horses this can be instant. Others may take a few weeks, others longer still. Taking the shoes off and setting a deadline won’t work e.g we’ll give him six weeks without shoes, if he’s sound after six weeks great, if not we’ll put the shoes back on. Many shod horses start off with a severely weakened foot – the barefoot transitioning period is reversing years of damage and it’s only reasonable to think it will take some time. Even if the hoof wall looks healthy and strong, internally things may not be so great – thin sole, underdeveloped digital cushion, heel bulbs etc. It takes, on average, nine months for a whole new hoof to be grown and some horses will not be 100% until the old, shod hoof, has entirely grown out. It is all too easy to give up too soon. Patient and a long term view are essential.

If your farrier isn’t supportive then it’s better to turn to a barefoot trimmer. The transition from shod to barefoot isn’t necessarily easy or straightforward (though it can be for the lucky ones!) and it’s essential to have support from someone knowledgeable. Using a barefoot trimmer can be controversial as any one can buy a set of tools and set themselves up in business. However there are a number of professional barefoot trimming organisations and anyone who is a member of one of those organisations will have been trained and examined. All the organisations will provide details of their training courses and the standards required gain qualification with them. Trimmers who are members of an organisation have to abide by the organisation’s rules and ethics and if you have any complaints about a particular trimmer you have an organisation to contact with those complaints. Word of mouth is also important – if you know other people with barefoot horses then ask them who they use. A good trimmer will also be happy to show you their own horses and have you talk to their clients. If you are still unsure about your prospective trimmer then ask to see them trim a horse. A good trimmer will have been fully trained in suitable diets, environments and transitioning. They will also be fully aware of all the potential pitfalls and the ups and downs you will encounter along the way – they will know what to expect as they’ve more than likely encountered it themselves with their own horses and those of other clients. Think of the trimmer like a therapist – they will guide you through the good and the bad times!

What can you expect through the ‘transitioning’ period?

Some horses will carry on at the same work level as before, others may struggle at first on harder and stonier ground. If a horse has his shoes taken off and is footy on grass or other soft surfaces then he wasn’t sound to start with and you really need to look at his diet again.

For the average horse a few weeks of transitioning is to be expected but this doesn’t mean stop working him. The opposite is true but you may need to reduce the workload a little. Gentle hacks at walk and trot on roads is fantastic for strengthening hooves. As the nail holes grow out you will get chips and cracks where the hoof wall round the holes has been damaged and weakened. The hooves may look worse before they get better but a good trim and a mustang roll – rounding the edges of the bottom of the hoof wall – will help significantly. There may also be a time lag between the speed at which the hoof wall is worn away and the speed new hoof wall grows. In time your horse will grow hoof wall at the rate he wears it away but not in the beginning. In this case, and in every case where the horse is struggling, the use of hoof boots is the answer. Hoof boots mean you can keep your horse working and moving but he stays comfortable. There is a huge range of hoof boots on the market now, something to suit every horse. Getting the fit right is hugely important and advice from your trimmer or a boot retailer is invaluable. People jump, hunt, drive, dressage and do endurance in hoof boots. No distance is too far for a well fitted set of boots. They no longer have to be hard to put on, rub or fly off at speed.

Are there any horses who can’t go barefoot? If so why?

You always hear people say their horse could never cope without shoes. The reasons they give are various – breed, colour of feet, age, or simply that when he loses a shoe he’s really lame. None of those are reasons any particular horse cannot go barefoot. All breeds can have strong healthy hooves, including thoroughbreds and draft horses. The road to get there is exactly the same – getting the diet and environment right is the key every time. The colour of the hooves makes no difference either – white feet are just as strong as black feet. The strongest part of the hoof wall is the inner layer – known as the water line. It is unpigmented horn and is always white! Age is also not a bar. The longer a hoof has been shod the more damage that will have been done and so the corresponding time to regrow a strong healthy hoof will be longer but it will still happen. Taking the shoes off older horses can be a huge relief especially to the ones with arthritis. Without shoes they can move much more naturally and often the act of banging in nails is painful to those ageing joints. Finally for those with horses that are lame when they lose a shoe – if you suddenly took your shoes and socks off and walked round outside you’d be hobbling too. You have to give the horse a chance to transition – just as if you threw away your socks and shoes and ran round outside every day for a month. By the end of the month you’d be running round like an Olympic athlete!

But there must be cases where barefoot didn’t work…

Many people have tried it with their horses and given up too soon or more usually without addressing diet. The most difficult cases to transition to barefoot are those horses that are Insulin Resistant. These horses are so sensitive to sugar that to succeed they need to be removed from grass completely and permanently. This means turn out onto non-grass surfaces like sand, dirt, pea gravel, or other hardstanding material. This is not always possible on livery yards but remember even with shoes on these horses are still Insulin Resistant and though using shoes may give the impression they are sound and healthy the issues are still rumbling on underneath. Like putting a plaster cast on an arm where the bone never heals.

Nature has provided the horse with perfectly designed feet to carry it safely and soundly over many miles. If we provide our horses as natural a lifestyle as possible they are all capable of having sound and healthy hooves without the need for shoes. Compromise is always necessary of course but rather than reaching for the metal and nails reach for those hoof boots instead. At the end of the day you can pull the boots off and still have those beautiful natural hooves.

Case Study

Hajar is a fourteen year old arab gelding. He is an advanced endurance gelding with many completions to his name. He had always been shod without any major issues although was very prone to bad overreaching and slipping on the roads. Natural balance shoeing had been tried but with no improvement. At the end of the 2008 season he started to get some tendon sheath inflammation on the inside of his near fore. This was scanned and no damage found. At the beginning of 2009 he pulled a shoe off in the field, along with a chunk of hoof wall. The shoe was put back on. At the first competition of the 2009 season he overreached badly in deep sand, a wound that took six months to heel properly. At the second ride of the season he presented at the post ride vetting with the same inflammation on the inside of the near fore. Again the leg was scanned with nothing showing but the warning signs were obvious – something was going to go seriously wrong if nothing was changed. After much deliberation and research it was decided to take his shoes off and try barefoot. He was sound on smooth surfaces but footy on gravel and stone. He was fitted with hoof boots and did his first endurance ride without shoes four weeks later, successfully completing 25 miles. Two weeks after that he completed 40 miles in boots – gaining a Grade 2. In 2010 he completed 25 miles in less than two and a half hours and three weeks later completed a 50 mile ride in a good time. He no longer overreaches and the inflammation in his near fore has never reappeared and he hopefully has many competitive years left, including completing the elusive 100 miles in a day.

Hajar at Cirencester 80K CR 2010.


Angela Corner is an AANHCP Certified Practitioner and Advanced endurance rider.  Rockcrunchers Barefoot Trimming Services, covers The Midlands, Lincolnshire and the North of England. www.rockcrunchers.co.uk, info@rockcrunchers.co.uk. 07580039882.

AANHCP Certified Natural Hoofcare Practitioner and Barefoot Endurance Rider
Full range of services offered:
Performance hoof trims based on the natural hoof model
Full support during transitioning from shod to barefoot
Advice on diet, environment and overall management of the barefoot horse
Advice on the choosing, fitting and using of hoof boots.
Advice on and management of hoof and hoof related problems – navicular syndrome, laminitis, cracks, flares, poor quality hoof wall, seedy toe, forging, stumbling and over reaching.
Fully insured and member of AANHCP professional organisation.


Saddle Fitting Explained – SIMPLY

A saddle will probably be the most expensive single item which you buy for your horse – sometimes it can even cost more than the horse!  So, it is really important that the choice you make is the most suitable, not just for the horse but for you, the rider or riders.

There may be compromises to be made, but the most important aspect is that of the horse’s welfare in conjunction with the riders’ needs, whatever discipline or level, to achieve maximum comfort and optimum performance safely.  Whether a happy hacker or top competitor, nearly all caring horse owners and riders understand that horses ‘change shape’ for a variety of reasons so that any saddle, no matter how well fitted at the time it was purchased, may need adjustment, alteration or even exchange at a later date.

Saddles were first introduced centuries ago simply to attach stirrups and provide a stable seat for the rider.  Although the style of riding has changed drastically in recent years and the shape and type of horses has moved on and is still evolving, the basic principles of a ‘tree’d’ saddle are much the same. The tree acts as a frame through which the weight of the rider is dispersed evenly through the panels and to place the rider in the right position, securely and in balance to allow the horse freedom to move and not to impede that movement.

A ‘good’ saddle should make it easier to sit, upright and relaxed, in the right place giving the partnership confidence.  An unbalanced saddle may throw the rider forward, back or twist making it hard to keep their leg in the correct position, contribute to back or neck problems for horse and rider, affect muscle development  and at worse completely unsettle both leading to behavioural problems and increasing the risk of horse and rider parting company.
I tend to liken buying and fitting a saddle to choosing a pair of jeans – although the latter is definitely less complicated, costly and potentially harmful in terms of physical damage! The processes involved can be just as stressful, input of opinions endless and the choice of brands daunting!  Expense and fashion is no guarantee of quality or fit or that they will still be wearable in two years time. Nor does an economy price tag mean that they aren’t appropriate for a special occasion or suitable for use every day.  However, especially if price is the only consideration, at the cheaper end of the market whatever the label or brand name, by default, production has to be standardised and/or contracted out, the choice of style is more limited, and there may be a risk that materials may not perform exactly to your expectations. And to be frank – you want your bum to look good in it!

There are a number of factors in finding the ‘right’ saddle.  Most are common sense but, because of the infinite variations in physique of both horse and rider, differing demands of each riding discipline and huge pool of used and new saddle styles and types, no wonder it can feel like a minefield.  It is really vital you are confident in your choice and this is where the help of a competent and experienced saddle fitter can really make the difference.
The most influential element in fitting a saddle is the horse or pony’s breed, type, size and confirmation – a saddle suitable for an athletic thoroughbred, as a general rule, would not fit a fat cob, or be balanced for a full warmblood. The saddle should not be too long for the horse’s ribcage, should not pinch the wither, nor prevent the horse from using its shoulder or from moving freely.

The next consideration is what the saddle is to be used for – a dressage style saddle may be good on the flat, but it won’t be any help around a show jumping arena.

And thirdly, the type of rider – tall/short, round/athletic, long/short legs (especially the thigh proportion),  heavy or light, right/left handed, beginner/professional, straight/crooked etc, etc.

In brief, what you should look for in a correctly fitted saddle:

  • The size, width and pattern of the tree must be suited to the horse being fitted
  • The angle of the tree must correspond to the angle of the horse’s shoulder
  • The size of the saddle must be suitable for horse and rider
  • It must not interfere with the backward movement of the scapula – ie block the shoulder
  • It must be balanced so that the deepest part of the seat enables the rider to sit in the centre of the horse’s movement
  • The weight bearing contact area of the panel is as much and as even as possible without pressure points or ‘bridging’
  • It sits symmetrically over the spine on the back and is free from excessive movement such as rocking, swaying, pivoting, rotating.  (Raised, broken or rubbed areas of hair under panels are telltale signs if there is movement)
  • The tree is symmetrical
  • The panels are symmetrical (Although there may be occasional flocking adjustments to accommodate irreversible one-sidedness through muscle imbalance or injury)
  • The flocking is not lumpy or with big holes.
  • The girthing lies correctly with the girth groove so the saddle is not pulled forward when the girth is adjusted.

The best advice is always honest advice.  Never take a saddle because it’s ‘the one that looks nice’, someone else on the yard ‘has one’ or ‘it will do’.  Every horse and rider is individual. Always try before you buy and do not be afraid to wait to find the right one.  Do research, use a fitter you trust, one that is trying to find the best for you, not just to ‘sell a saddle’. Ask questions, any genuine fitter will not resent your wish for knowledge and will ensure you have real support and backup if there should be problems. And please, do get your saddle checked regularly, generally every 6 months if your horse tends to change to a year for light work.  Even if there is not an obvious need, it is always better safe than sorry.

Whatever saddle you finally decide on, it is your choice. It is always worth involving an experienced saddlefitter to help you – not to make the decision for you – but to advise what will suit you and your horse best.
Article by Sally Prichard from Albion
07973 838 0972 or email selppr@aol.com


New Forest Ponies – versatile and world-beating!

New Forest ponies are one of the most versatile breeds and compete in all disciplines from dressage and driving to eventing and endurance. Recent high profile competitive successes for the breed include the stallion Farriers Finger Print, who stood Mountain and Moorland Supreme Ridden Champion at Olympia 2009.  A team of New Forest ponies from the New Forest Pony Enthusiasts Club won the SEIB Quadrille of the Year at Olympia 2010, and the same riding club sent out the winning team at the British Riding Clubs Rural Riders Dressage Championships two years running, in 2008 and 2009.

Stinna Tange Kaastrup riding Labbenhus Snoevs at WEG

Perhaps the most outstanding display of this breeds naturally calm temperament, trainability and capability for top-level performance came at last year’s World Equestrian Games. Sixteen year old Danish rider Stinna Tange Kaastrup wowed the crowds and impressed the judges to clinch one silver and two bronze medals in the para–dressage – aboard a New Forest pony. Stinna, who was born without legs, has formed a perfect partnership with Labbenhus Snoevs, a smart bay bred in Denmark but with strong English bloodlines. Stinna said of her pony after WEG “He has the greatest personality! He’s SO funny! He really connects to his people and you don’t doubt for a second that he loves you. He has a will of his own that’s for sure! But most important of all he is really clever! He never does any stupid things and he’s the most gentle soul.”

New Forest ponies make ideal mounts for children and adults alike – from hacking and Pony Club activities to international dressage success, they will turn a hoof to anything. The New Forest Pony Publicity Group (NFPPG) was formed in 2001 to raise the profile and value of the native New Forest pony. Commoners breeding these ponies, which run free on the forest, were failing to achieve market prices which reflected their true value. With funding from EU’s New Forest LEADER+ Programme and as part of the Forest Friendly Farming Project, the Group has been achieving its aims – a recent report found that average sale prices have increased by a whopping 270% since the NFPPG started.
Twice a year the Group organise a Pre-sale Show prior to the Auction at Beaulieu Road Sale Yard – Youngstock in May and Foals in September. To enter the show ponies must be halter broken, the classes are judged by a Top List judge and all entries are then sold later in the auction. The NFPPG would like to extend a warm invitation to all to visit the shows and sales, and maybe even to purchase your very own future champion.

NFPEC at the RC Champs

Sale and Show Dates 2011
Thursday 5th May 2011 (to include Pre-sale Youngstock Show of registered New Forest ponies)
Thursday 11th August 2011
Thursday 15th September 2011
Thursday 20th October 2011 (to include Pre-sale Foal Show of registered New Forest Ponies)
Thursday 24th November 2011

For more information on the sales please contact Mandy Pidgeley on 01590 676476 or email haywardsponies@aol.com, or visit or visit http://www.nfls.org.uk

For more information on the breed, visit the New Forest Pony Publicity Group website – www.nfed.co.uk/nfppg


Sweet Itch Management

Some horses develop Sweet-Itch which is an allergic skin disease following midge bites.   Sweet-itch can affect horses of all types and generally starts from a young age.  The horse will suffer from very itchy skin, causing it to rub and rub to the extent of causing hair loss and even open sores which can get secondary infection.  Thickened skin is another result of this condition.

Midges can be active from March to October, (depending on weather conditions and the environment), so this is when action should be taken to avoid your horse being badly affected.  You need to try and protect your horse from the midges and also relieve any reaction to any bites which still occur.

If you have ever been near water at dawn or dusk, you will know that is when midges are really active.  So try and avoid having your horse out at that time by stabling him/her and, if you can, avoid turning your horse out near standing or even running water.

There are now many products on the market which help: Special sweet-itch rugs, fly rugs and masks, Insect repellants, insect anti-feedants.  The National Sweet-itch centre have been conducting trials on a vaccine and orally fed capsules to help with this horrid condition.

For more information, see the dedicated sweet-itch website: www.sweet-itch.co.uk or contact your vet.

PROMOTION:

Fine Fettle™ Fly-Gon is a powerful anti-feedant which very effectively stops midges and other insects from biting. Sprayed onto an animal’s skin, it forms a healthy, bitter barrier which protects and soothes.

Like most alkaline substances Fine Fettle™ Fly-Gon combines with the natural oils on horses’ skin to form a mildly antiseptic compound which helps any bites or stings to heal more rapidly.

What it does

It is as an anti-feedant that Fine Fettle™ Fly-Gon plays a major role in dissuading midges from biting horses. Female midges have to obtain a blood meal in order to mature their eggs, which is why they feed on horses. Their saliva is acidic and can cause the allergy reaction known as Sweet Itch. By applying the alkaline Fine Fettle™ Fly-Gon to the horse’s skin the acid in the midge bite is neutralised and this dramatically reduces the effect of midge bites.

No insect looking for a meal will bite into an alkaline barrier, since it jams up their jaw mechanism. Because of this midges and flies may land on a horse but they will not feed. In this way Fine Fettle™ Fly-Gon acts to protect your horse from stress, irritation and unnecessary suffering.

For more information or to buy Fine Fettle™ Fly-Gon, visit our website: www.finefettlefeed.com/products/flygon/


Mud Fever

An article produced by Three Counties Equine Hospital

Mud fever is a common skin condition caused by the soil bacterium Dermatophilus congolensis. The bacterium penetrates skin damaged by abrasion and /or wet conditions.

The lower legs – at the back of the pastern, are typically affected. When present on the neck and back, the infection is termed rain scald. Affected inflamed skin oozes, leading to scabby tufts of hair. More severe cases may develop swelling, pain and lameness. Conditions which may appear similar, include lice, mites, ringworm and chemical infection.

Treatment of cases involves:

• Ensure current tetanus prophylaxis

• Wear gloves

• Remove mud

• Clipping hair from the affected area is beneficial in some cases

• Sedation may be required

• Soak and massage the area using an antibacterial solution eg. chlorhexidine (Hibiscrub – 1:40 in warm water)

• Leave on for 10 minutes to soften and loosen scabs, allowing their removal.

• Wash off the antibacterial solution with warm water

• Dry the area thoroughly

• Apply a barrier antibiotic cream, fuciderm or our own brand (Three Counties Equine Hospital) of mud fever cream

• Repeat this procedure twice daily, reducing frequency as the condition improves Mud fever is difficult to prevent, as it can be to treat:

• Use the driest paddocks, fencing off muddy areas

• Stabling or manege turnout reduces exposure to mud

• Check you horse daily for early signs, parting the hair and inspecting the skin

• Begin treatment at the earliest signs of mud fever

If the condition is severe or persists, consult TCEH for advice. Anti-inflammatory and antibiotic medication may be prescribed.

Article reproduced by permission of Three Counties Equine Hospital,

Stratford Bridge, Ripple, Tewkesbury, Glos. GL20 6HE

Tel. 01684 592099

Fax. 01684 592181

E. info@tceh.co.uk

www.tceh.co.uk


The Rules of Feeding

Feeding – An art or a science? – Or both!
Firstly, do you know the rules of feeding and why they are rules? Below the rules, I have listed a few facts you may not know and which may surprise you! The Rules:

Feed little & often
The horse has a very small stomach – just the size of a rugby football and it works best when it is 2/3rds full. The horse is a trickle feeder – when out in the wild or the field, it eats little and often. Feed no more than 2kg (4.5lbs) per feed – this includes the chaff & sugarbeet where fed.

Feed plenty of roughage
The horse’s gut is designed to break down roughage (grass, hay, haylage, chaff etc) rather than concentrates, so as much roughage should be fed as possible. At least 30% of the horses diet, but nearer 60-70% where possible. (A racehorse or event horse may be on as little as 30% for ultimate leanness and fitness)

Always water before feeding & where possible, always have fresh water available for your horse to drink.
If a horse drinks a lot of water after it has eaten, it washes undigested or partially undigested food out of its’ stomach before it it ready to go to the next stage of digestion. This can cause colic and certainly prevents the horse utilizing his feed to the full, so it is a waste of food too.

Make changes to a horses feed gradually (eg, over a week)

The horse’s gut develops feed specific bacteria to break down the types of feed you give your horse. If you suddenly change the feed, the redundant bacteria die in the gut and can become toxic leading to serious colic or even death. If you change the diet gradually, the bacteria are able to change gradually and therefore cope with the different feed. When you buy or sell a horse, always ask/tell the seller/buyer which brand of feed they use, so that the horse doesnt have to undergo a change of feed and home. The change of home is trau- matic enough.

Feed according to size, condition, age, type, breed, work being done, temperament, time of year etc etc
Differences between the factors on the left make all the difference when deciding how much to feed and what types of food to feed your horse or pony. Although compound feeds (mixes and nuts) have a recom- mended feeding requirement on the back of the sack, you must also take into consideration those factors mentioned on the left. For example, in the Spring, a 16hh 4 yr old in light work, will not need as much con- centrated feed as a 16hh 10 year old about to go eventing. Some horses loose condition easily, some get fat easily. Feed them accordingly!

Always feed good quality forage

It is a waste of your time, effort and money to feed poor quality feeds – for example, bad quality hay not on- ly has very little feed value, but is also harmful to your horses respiratory system due to dust and spores. Bagged feed that is out of date will have less nutritional value than fresh feeds and the vitamins and minerals which are in the feed will have lost their value too. In the longterm it will save you money to feed good quality roughage and concentrates.

Feed at the same time every day
Horse’s are creatures of habit and should be kept to the same routine every day. This helps keep them calm, relaxed and happy.

Always use clean feed bowls and utensils
As horse’s are fussy feeders who are easily put off their feed, you should keep all feed bowls and utensils scrupulously clean. This also helps prevent disease.

Feed something succulent every day

This includes grass, so where possible, turn your horse out as often as you can. Alternative succulents in- clude sugar beet, carrots, apples, swedes and turnips. But there is no substitute for good quality grass.

Don’t exercise immediately after feeding

It takes a horse approx 20 mins to eat his feed and 1.5 hours for that feed to pass through the stomach. Give your horse plenty of time to digest his feed before riding him. If it is necessary for you to ride very early in the morning, feed after exercise, or give a very small feed beforehand.

So, what else do you need to know? Compound feeds (mixes and nuts) are fully balanced diets and therefore, you should not add straights (oats, barley, maize, etc) nor extra supplements to the feed. If you do, you risk unbalancing the balanced feed you have just spent your money on!
In the event of you feeding less than the recommended required amount for your horse or pony, you may need to use a supplement to ensure your horse is getting all the nutrients he needs. If you find this confusing, consult the feed advisor at the feed manufacturers (they all have them these days) or ask your trainer.

Haylage - there is a belief around that haylage is more heating than hay and therefore you should feed less of it.
However, this is not right! Ask any feed expert. Haylage has a much higher water content than hay and therefore you need to feed MORE haylage than hay. The feed experts will also tell you that haylage is not more heating than hay. However, if you suddenly change your horse from a say 14 lbs hay to 7 lbs haylage which also has a much higher water content, the result will be that your horse will get loose droppings! He is supposed to have lots of roughage (dry matter) and you have just halved the quantity of roughage and added a whole lot of water content! Of course your horse now has the squitts!!

Hay - should be fed soaked, but how long for? The longer you soak the hay, the more you spoil the good- ness of the nutrients. To maintain the nutrients, soak it for half an hour. If you have a laminitic pony or horse, soak it for 12 hours so there is lots of roughage to help your horse but the nutrient level is reduced.

Protein v Carbohydrates.
Protein DOES NOT give your horse energy. Protein is responsible for your horse’s body build and repair. Carbohydrates give your horse energy.

You CANNOT turn fat into muscle. Fat and muscle are 2 completely different components. Fat is excess energy stored in the body as adipose tissue and it lies on top of the muscles under the skin. If you feed your horse more carbohydrates than it needs for its maintenance and work, it will store those carbohydrates as a layer of fat. In the extreme, this can completely hide the definition of the horse’s muscles. Muscle on the oth- er hand, is a specialist tissue responsible for contraction and therefore movement.

For your horse to gain muscle and top line, you need to feed protein to enable the body to build the muscles and use exercise to develop those muscles.
Feeding any energy excess to requirements will exaggerate the ‘natural metabolism’ of the horse……it will NOT change his character.

A heating feed is one which when digested, provides internal warmth. Most internal warmth is produced when the horse is digesting fibre in the large intestine (hind gut). So when the weather turns cold, feed your horse more roughage.

Confused??? If you find feeding your horse a complete mystery, get help and advice, either from your trainer (they should be able to give you sound advice based on their knowledge and experience, or from a feed expert. Many leading feed manufacturers employ equine nutritionists who will give advice either over the phone or by email.


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Strangles

Strangles is a disease which all horse owners dread and it can kill.
If you suspect your horse may have strangles, you should contact your vet immediately and isolate your horse.
More information can be read on the Animal Health Trust’s dedicated strangles website: http://www.strangles.org/
Click here to see what STEPS should be taken in the event of a strangles outbreak: http://www.aht.org.uk/strangles.org/pdf/steps.pdf.
Here is a personal experience of the disease by Herefordshire horse owner Hannah Tolley:
“STRANGLES – a personal experience of this gharsly disease:
Last year, our pony showed the common symptoms of strangles: thick snotty discharge from the nose (like custard), he was a depressed, unwell looking pony and had an abscess under his jaw. Our vet confirmed the case, so we had to disinfect everything! We had to buy an expensive disinfectant as advised by our vet, have foot dips, change of clothes once you had been near to him to do hay/water feed etc. We only handled him when necessary so risk of spread could be kept minimal.

Fortunately our other horses were kept 5 miles away from him and no other horses were kept close by. He was kept isolated for the entire time – nearly 4
months before he finally had the all clear. It has been a struggle as it was so expensive with the blood tests, swabs and disinfectant, plus all the extra time
to change and wash all clothing and disinfect everything. It was heartbreaking to see such a fun loving competition pony be confined to such a tiny patch with no company, no riding nor any proper attention for four months, but we knew he had to be there because strangles is so infectious and we didn’t want it spreading. We are all so happy that he is now finally clear.

I walked him up to his new field this morning which he now shares with another horse. He was so glad to have space to canter and have a play with his new friend, but most of all,I think he enjoyed the grass!!”


Breeding from your Mare

So, you want to breed from your mare?
An article by David & Serena Pincus

The decision to breed your own foal from your mare is not a simple decision. There are many factors that need to be considered carefully before ‘jumping in with both feet’ into this new venture. We wrote this article as an overview of the process of breeding a foal for the non professional breeder. We hope that we have been able to cover the main points that are important to those who may not have a vast experience and knowledge unlike the professional who breeds regularly. We advise that those who are not confident i.e. first time breeders should consult a person that has experience in stud matters.

The first aspect that you need to consider is your aim. You need to define what exactly you wish to breed whether it is a show jumper, dressage horse, eventer etc. When you are clear about the horse that you wish to breed you can consider the variables (mare’s good and bad qualities, choice of stallion) that are necessary in order to produce an animal that will be successful in its chosen field.

In order to breed a good foal one must be quite scrupulous in evaluating the mare. You cannot afford for sentimentality to override common sense. The breeder needs to identify the mare’s strong and weak points.  For example, if your intention is to breed a jumper then the mare must show an aptitude for jumping. Likewise, if your intention is to breed a dressage horse then the mare must have attractive paces. However, through the right choice of stallion one can improve on the mares qualities or make up for her shortfalls. For example, if you want to breed a jumper but your mare lacks in some aspect e.g. shape or ‘bascule’ over the jump, then one needs to consider using a stallion that makes a good shape over jumps as one of his dominant traits. In short, the breeder needs to choose a stallion that will complement the qualities of their mare, and to some degree compensate for her weaknesses.

When choosing the stallion there are a number of factors that need to be considered. As mentioned, the stallion needs to complement the mare in his qualities and ability. You will also need to consider his pedigree, performance record, conformation and successful progeny results. The other factor is whether the stallion is local or overseas.

Most studs offer Artificial Insemination (AI) as this is the safest option especially when dealing with expensive and valuable competition horses. The procedure lessens the degree of risk for injury to both the mare and the stallion. In AI the semen can be chilled or frozen and this also needs to be considered in your choice of stallion. As a general rule, frozen semen is trickier to use and we have found that our mares are more difficult to get in foal with frozen semen as opposed to chilled and have a reduced level of conception. Therefore, if your mare is old or you know is difficult to get in foal then frozen semen may not be the best option, fresh or chilled semen would be more viable.

By using shipped semen from overseas you are ensuring that you have a wider choice of stallions and are more likely to select a very suitable stallion for your particular mare as the selection is wider. You may also be able to use exceptional continental stallions with international competition records. However, by using shipped semen you will be relying heavily on your vet especially when using frozen semen. This will mean that the cost of breeding a foal will be increased.

When you know what stallion you wish to use, one must decide whether the insemination will take place on your premises, the stud or an AI centre. Whichever venue is chosen there is a protocol that is followed the mare will be teased by a stallion to determine whether she is in season and therefore receptive to insemination.  In the absence of the stallion there is a greater reliance on the vet to determine the best time for insemination.  In the presence of a stallion, the mare will show stereotypic behaviour if she is in season such as lifting her tail in the presence of the stallion, urination and letting the stallion bite her. Mares not in season seem to resent the attentions of the stallion and can be aggressive. Some mares do not fit the rule and it is then necessary for the vet to determine whether she is in season via scanning. If the mare is close to ovulation (releasing the egg for possible fertilisation) then we can say that she is right for insemination according to veterinary advice. The vet is also needed in order to assess the mares ability to conceive and carry a foal.

The vet needs to take a swab of the uterine secretions in order to ensure that the environment is conducive to conception and carrying a foal to full term. If the mare is ‘dirty’ or has a low grade infection then her ability to conceive is reduced. The vet may decide the best course of action to take.

The mare may need to be examined several times during a season in order to determine the optimal period for insemination. When the mare is close to ovulation she needs be inseminated and then monitored to ensure that ovulation and therefore concurrent fertilisation has occurred. If ovulation has not taken place then a second insemination is required. If the breeder is lucky and got the timing spot on for ovulation then the mare will be scanned in 14 to 15 days time for pregnancy. If after 14 days the scan is positive for a foal then the breeder can look forward to the birth of a lovely future champion!
David & Serena Pincus
www.sheepcote.co.uk


Craniosacral therapy – An Introduction

Our living bodies have an amazing ability to maintain and restore health. There are lots of obvious examples of this: We can usually shake off infections, bones mend when they have been broken, wounds heal.
But our self-healing system can be overwhelmed by too many traumatic events in a short space of time or experiences that the body doesn’t have the opportunity to recover from. We are often our own worst enemies, driving ourselves on despite the fact that the body is crying out for time to heal.
In the end something happens that tips the balance and we start to experience illness or pain that we can’t shake off.

Craniosacral therapy offers the body a chance to rebalance and regain the health that is always there. It is a gentle exploration of the body’s story and a chance for healing to take place.  What happens in a session?

After an initial conversation my client usually lies on a treatment couch (if human, horses generally stay standing.) and I rest my hand somewhere on their body, often cradling the head, or with my hand under the lower back. And we wait.

Gradually things slow down and the client’s body system is able to start telling its story. In much the same way as we might put a difficult thought away when in the midst of demanding activity to review it at a calmer moment, the body too seems to store potentially overwhelming experiences until there are adequate resources to deal with them. Although this facility is life saving, it can also result in an overloaded system so that some apparently minor event becomes the last straw that brings on pain or illness. As therapist, part of my job is to make sure that the pace at which the story is explored is right so the body systems are restored and revitalised rather than becoming overwhelmed or trying to tackle too much at once.

And things happen: Long-standing pains stop being painful, headaches become less frequent or disappear.  Habitual patterns of fear and anxiety change and come under control. Disturbed sleep patterns get more peaceful. Digestion improves.  Many of my clients make a regular session part of their ongoing health care because it maintains a feeling of well being and peace of mind.

It is always a pleasure to work with riders. You can’t ride a horse for long without becoming aware of where your body is and how it is behaving. It seems to be easy for riders to feel what is happening in a session and notice the changes their bodies want to make.
I have worked with riders who have had falls or injuries that are causing problems, but clients can also work with the long term postural habits that limit our ability to respond as we want to the challenges of having the balance and suppleness that create an independent seat.
Horses too are wonderfully responsive to craniosacral therapy, often moving to put the part of their body that needs attention under my hand, or using the pressure to ease out an area of tension. One horse client who responded remarkably had fallen on a stake, which had run along the outside of the ribs from an entry wound just behind the shoulder. The wound had long healed but the scar tissue formed a ridge along her side with restricted movement of skin and muscle over the ribs. It was hard for her to use her body evenly and you could see the compensation when she tried to bend.  I did one session with her, very gently holding the scarred area and feeling the adhesions releasing. She was warm from the exercise she had been doing while we were assessing her movement. After a few minutes her owner did some more turns and circles to let the muscles know that the area was free and we called it a day.
A week or so later I saw her standing in the field and noticed that the familiar scar wasn’t visible. At first I just assumed that I was looking at the wrong side. (Never very good at left and right as anyone who has tried to share a school with me will know.) But the other side looked just the same. I was amazed that such a long-standing problem could be cleared up in what was little more than a quick treatment as part of a conversation.

Vivien Ray RCST 01981 580577
Visit the Craniosacral Therapy association website:
www.craniosacral.co.uk


The Importance of warming up your horse

by Emily Wilton BSc(Hons), Dip. MCAM

Proper warm up is essential to keeping your horse fit and muscle tone elastic. Warming up and cooling down will help to minimize muscle stiffness and loss of range of motion. This will also help to prevent injury such as to tendons or muscles and help prepare the horse and rider both mentally and physically to maximise performance.

As an equine therapist, I often feel that people misunderstand the importance of warming up their horse. In the busy lives we lead, it is easy to ignore or cut short a good 10-minute warm up session before any activity. In some horses, particularly older ones, you may need up to half an hour. As you get to know your horse, you will be able to establish the length of time needed.  If we now discuss what happens in the warm up phase it may help to understand the importance of it.

Oxygen availability
Initially the warm up increases both the heart rate from a resting state and the horse’s circulation. Oxygen is carried in the blood to the muscles and tissues, and an increase in circulation means that oxygen can reach the muscles faster. Also, during this time the spleen contracts, and this releases red blood cells, which are responsible for carrying oxygen. More red blood cells mean a larger oxygen carrying capacity and the more oxygen in the horse, the better the performance. Horses are unique in their ability to store red blood cells in their spleen and when horses exercise the volume of red blood cells can increase by as much as 70%. A warm up will ensure that the release of red blood cells will be complete because there is a lag time between the start of exercise and contraction of the spleen. The red blood cells can then be distributed uniformly in the blood.

Body Temperature Alteration
The warm up increases the temperature of muscles. Glucose and glycogen are the main fuel used when we exercise and the utilisation of these generates heat, which raises body temperature. Certain enzymes in muscles work better at higher temperatures. However if the core body temperature gets too hot the body will shut down so a gradual increase in temperature is required. Haemoglobin functions in oxygen transport more readily at higher temperatures therefore it is more efficient if the muscles are warmer.

Energy Preservation
Horses and humans use glycogen (which is stored in the muscles) in the initial stages of exercise, as glucose in not yet available in the blood. There is only so much that can be stored in the muscles so this supply of energy needs to be preserved. Warming up slowly enhances the use of glucose in the blood, so if you don’t warm up you will quickly run out of energy as the glycogen becomes depleted.

Musculoskeletal benefits
Every stride the horse takes causes an impact on the tendons. The warm up process increases the elasticity of the tendons allowing them to stretch to a greater degree without injury. This is because the collagen molecules in the tendons pack together and water is redistributed within the matrix.
Warming up also increases the strength of muscle. A weight lifter for example, will start off lifting a light weight and as the muscles become stretched, will increase the load. This is the same for a horse – the muscle contraction strength is increased as the muscles are stretched in the warming up period.
There are many ways in which people choose to warm up their horse – there are no hard and fast rules but the factors I suggest to people to consider are:

  • The time it takes dependent on whether the weather is hot or cold. As much as you want your horse to be warm, you do not want to exhaust him in the heat!
  • The time may vary on the age or breed and temperament
  • Do not warm up too early for a competition or for too long
  • Use a rug in between classes to prevent your horse getting cold
  • Use the warm up to physically and mentally prepare you and your horse
  • Warming up the tendons and muscles can help prevent injury

I hope this article can show you the reasons why is it so important to warm up your horse and gives you a different perspective to the processes that occur during this phase. Emily Wilton, (2008). emily@animaltherapist.co.uk; Tel 0780 3294446. www.animaltherapist.co.uk